This post has been a while in the making. I've been dragging my feet for a couple of reasons, mostly related to being too busy and drinking too much because I'm too busy. It's a worthy discussion, though, since the season is changing and I'm asking myself the same damn question I ask every fall when considering how to make our program more LOCAL... What am I going to do about citrus juice?
It's a silly question without context, so let me lay it out for you. We live in what I describe as a less-than-lush part of the country. Although global warming is going to help us out with citrus pretty soon, we don't really have a lot of options for tart components that are local. I have a bad attitude toward the emphasis on citrus juice in cocktail making, but I think it's related to the lack of local availability... it's a sour grapes sort of perspective, for lack of a more appropriate term. Since we are working to create a cocktail style that is very regional and reflects our area, I'm interested in ways to cheat nature out of forcing me to ship a case of lemons from Florida so I can make new drinks with balance.
Although you cannot twist an apple peel, you can produce sour apple (or sour grape) juice with the help of crystallized citric acid. Lemon is a very important flavor, but in a menu period of fall emphasis, why not try sour apple juice instead of lemon? Getting the balance right is key to say the least. The first batch of juice I put together burned my throat and locked my jaw for a few seconds... such is the nature of trial and error. The basic process is outlined below if you'd like to try it. I recommend using a sweeter, softer apple (red delicious would work just fine,) since adding citric acid will create a nice, complex juice. Softer apples also produce juice with more texture.Heat 1 quart fresh, local apple juice to about 95 degrees. Stir in teaspoonfuls of citric acid, tasting the juice as it dissolves. The more tart the apples, the less acid you need. Cool juice and bottle for storage.
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